Good Vibrations
It was good news both for snowbirds and for the Evening Independent, St. Petersburg’s afternoon newspaper. On a slow news day in 1910, the Independent’s publisher had come up with a brilliant marketing plan. On days when the sun didn’t shine, the paper would be free.
The idea was brilliant because it indelibly stamped the “Sunshine City” moniker on St. Petersburg, which was emerging as a choice destination for northern tourists. It was cheap because the sun shines an average of 361 days a year in the Tampa Bay area. For the next 75 years, the paper was obligated rarely to forego circulation revenue.
But if sun and surf attract people to Tampa Bay, plenty of other recreational opportunities keep them here.
For lovers of the arts and sciences, there’s the Salvador Dali Museum in St. Petersburg, the Tampa Museum of Art and The Museum of Science and Industry.
Thrill seekers can check out Busch Gardens and Adventure Island. And sports fans can cheer on the Tampa Bay Buccaneers, the Tampa Bay Devil Rays and the Tampa Bay Lightning. Several professional baseball teams, including the New York Yankees, Philadelphia Phillies, Pittsburgh Pirates and the Rays tune up during spring training. The area has already hosted three Super Bowls with the next, XLIII, to take place in 2009.
Not surprisingly, this winning combination of natural beauty, leisure amenities and a thriving local economy has made the Tampa Bay Metropolitan Statistical Area among the fastest growing in the United States, with nearly 2.5 million people now occupying Pinellas, Hillsborough, Pasco and Hernando counties.
Despite the rapid growth, housing remains relatively affordable. According to the National Association of Home Builders/Wells Fargo Housing Opportunity Index, the median price of all homes sold in the Tampa Bay area was $198,000 during the fourth quarter of 2006.
Concurrently, the region’s median household income was $54,400. Thus, according to the HOI, families earning the region’s median household income could afford to purchase 43 percent of the homes actually being sold. (Orlando is at 30 percent and Miami is at 10 percent.)
And there’s no sign that the region will run out of homes for the influx of new residents anytime soon. Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County, which is nearly built out, is starting to build up, with a boom in condominium construction downtown and along the beaches. Although parts of Hillsborough and Manatee counties are fully developed, wide expanses to the east are sprouting master-planned communities.
Pasco County, with the Suncoast Parkway running up its spine, has become another new frontier for development. And Tampa" target="_blank">Hernando County, also blessed with Parkway access, is hot on its heels.
Without a doubt, the Bay area offers a rich array of home choices. We can help you narrow it down.
Following is a neighborhood-by-neighborhood primer, in which you’ll find everything from new master-planned developments to charming historic neighborhoods. Undoubtedly, there’s a home just right for you and your family.
Hillsborough
Brandon
Settler John Brandon gave his name to this sprawling community in the 1850s. Then the railroad arrived in 1890. But not much else of significance happened here until 145 years later, when the giant Westfield Brandon mall opened.
Even then, plenty of cows were around to witness the hoopla. A herd of curious bovines, kept in a field near the mall, broke through a barbed wire enclosure and into the parking lot, startling drivers and pedestrians and leaving odorous souvenirs behind on an otherwise festive opening day.
Cattle are getting rarer in Brandon, which is located conveniently at the end of the Lee Roy Selmon Crosstown Expressway and near the junction of I-4 and I-75, creating easy access to both Tampa and Orlando.
In 1960, the first year a census was taken of Brandon, there were 1,655 residents. By 2000 there were 77,895. The geographic boundaries have grown as well, with Brandon now encompassing an area south of I-4, east of I-75 and south to Big Bend Road. The towns of Lithia, Seffner, Mango and a new rising star, Dover, are all considered part of the Brandon area.
Despite its size, Brandon isn’t a city. Instead, it’s one of the largest unincorporated communities in Florida. Newcomers are often surprised to learn that Tampa" target="_blank">Hillsborough County provides Brandon’s police and fire protection as well as other governmental services.
Twenty years ago, Brandon offered a wide array of solid if unremarkable homes, attracting a large contingent of military families and retirees from nearby MacDill Air Force Base. The average price was around $50,000. Today, the median home price in Brandon is pushing $250,000—and there’s no shortage of $1 million-plus homes.
Brandon has always been known for its family-oriented neighborhoods, a tradition that continues with FishHawk Ranch and FishHawk Trails, two large master-planned communities. And local schools are considered to be excellent, another big draw for buyers.
FishHawk Ranch, in Lithia, once a working ranch, is a breathtaking tract planned for some 5,000 homes, miles of walking trails, a skate park, community pools, movie house, aquatics center and even a roller hockey rink. FishHawk Trails, a gated custom-home community on the east side of Lithia-Pinecrest, offers beautiful homes for resale on half-acre-plus lots. Resales are also available in Bloomingdale, a Brandon mainstay now built-out with more than 4,000 single-family homes.
There are several nearby entertainment venues. The Florida State Fairgrounds provides year-round events and festivals. The Ford Amphitheatre on the fairgrounds regularly presents pop, country and rock concerts.
The Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, complete with a 50-foot-tall guitar at the entrance, offers live entertainment, restaurants and bars and a full-service spa as well as slot machines and roulette wheels.
Downtown Tampa
Tampa started out as a fort. President James Monroe approved a military post to be built at Hillsborough Bay in 1823 and, by the following year, Fort Brooke was completed. The peninsular Tampa area, which juts out into Tampa Bay, has had a military presence ever since.
In 1898, during the Spanish-American War, Tampa was a major staging ground for 30,000 of Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders, who were preparing to invade Cuba. And MacDill Air Force Base is on the tip of the Interbay Peninsula, eight miles from downtown.
For many years, downtown Tampa was only a place to work. Now it’s increasingly becoming a place to live as well, with condominiums planned from the downtown core through the Channel District, adjacent to the Port of Tampa, and all the way to historic Ybor City.
Replicas of the city’s 1920s-era historic streetcars make it easy and fun to get from one end of downtown to the other. The city’s impressive skyline marks the bustling waterfront region and provides a gleaming glass-and-steel backdrop for many of the area’s high-profile attractions. The St. Pete Times Forum, Channelside entertainment complex, Florida Aquarium, Yacht StarShip and Ybor City provide plenty of opportunities for fun and relaxation on or near the water.
The west side of downtown, along the scenic Hillsborough River, is home to the Tampa Convention Center, Tampa Bay History Center, Tampa Museum of Art, University of Tampa, Henry B. Plant Museum (formerly the Tampa Bay Hotel) and Tampa Bay Performing Arts Center.
But there’s probably no place in Tampa" target="_blank">Hillsborough County with a more active nightlife than Ybor (pronounced E-bore). This funky National Historic Landmark District—the second largest in Florida, after St. Augustine—was once home to cigar factories where Cuban immigrants toiled, hand-rolling cigars as el Lector read newspapers and novels to them.
Some of the red brick former cigar factory buildings and social clubs remain, as do a significant number of other structures built around the turn of the last century.
The influence of Cuban culture is still strong along Seventh Avenue. Within a few blocks, you can buy a Cuban-style cigar, eat authentic Cuban sandwiches or black beans, rice and plantains, and enjoy a cup of steaming Cuban coffee.
The district has several popular restaurants and bars, and no fewer than 25 major events are celebrated each year, including illuminated night parades, cultural and arts festivals and a weekend farmers’ market.
Ybor’s energy has attracted a burgeoning creative class, including architects, engineers and designers. And on the east side, there’s an industrial area teeming with manufacturers and distributors. Today’s “Cigar City” is becoming a place where newcomers want to live as well as work and play.
“It’s an up-and-coming place to live,” says Marc Hamburg, owner of Florida Real Estate Associates and past chairman of the Ybor City Chamber of Commerce. “Property values are holding steady and increasing. Even the president of our chamber is living in the district.”
For example, the relatively new Camden Ybor City apartments were recently converted to condominiums while new multifamily projects are rising on long-empty lots. And many tiny shotgun-style homes—known locally as casitas—are being restored as private residences. Several have been preserved and relocated to a square near the Ybor City State Museum, where one is being used as an art gallery and another as a tearoom.
In addition to new residential developments, commercial and office projects are popping up and attracting relocating companies. Among them are UTek, a technology transfer company with offices in London and Israel, and WilsonMiller, an engineering firm bringing 120 employees to the Old Ybor Brewing Company building. When Heidt & Associates opened its four-story building in 2006, it was the district’s first new office project completed in the last five years.
The sale of the Centro Ybor entertainment complex is creating great excitement with talk of new offices and exclusive residential properties being carved out of the existing design.
Nearby, low-rise, in-fill condos are sprouting in the area south of 7th Avenue. Most are owner-occupied.
Ybor, with all its patina and history, is adjacent to one of Tampa’s newest and fastest-emerging residential communities, Channelside. A decade ago, few would have been brave enough to predict a condominium craze in this once gritty industrial seaport district. But considering the spectacular waterfront views from up high, it’s surprising that it took so long.
In addition to the new condominiums, there are several mixed-use projects either announced or under way featuring ground-floor retail, restaurants or offices with residential towers above.
“I see Channelside and Ybor eventually getting married, especially as the Tampa Park and Central Park projects get under way,” says Hamburg. “Channelside has the water and the port while Ybor has the history. But both are urban environments that appeal to young professionals.”
Century-old Seminole Heights, one of the city’s first suburbs, is another thriving neighborhood in the downtown area. Blighted 20 years ago, it’s another Bay-area turnaround story.
When Hamburg moved there in the 1980s to be closer to downtown, he began buying older homes on the cheap and renting them to low-income tenants. Lately, as leases have expired, he’s found buyers competing for his properties—and offering top dollar.
“Values have gone way up,” Hamburg says. “Properties that were once rented are now being bought by professionals. The housing stock is making a big change.”
The Hillsborough River anchors Seminole Heights, which is dotted with small parks. Private properties on the little river are selling for prices over $1 million—sums that would have been unthinkable a few years ago. But buyers came to realize that its tributary’s direct access to the Gulf of Mexico was a premium Seminole Heights asset.
Neighborly porch parties are routine, giving new residents a chance to get to know each other and veterans the chance to gossip. And an annual Seminole Heights tour of homes is a popular event.
New Tampa
Tampa Palms was the community that changed the course of Hillsborough residential development. But nobody would have expected that until Denver developer Ken Good came to town in the 1980s with fistfuls of cash and a vision of a neighborhood like no other.
For generations, Bruce B. Downs Boulevard had been known as “the Road to Nowhere,” carved out so a few prominent families could access their hunting camps in northeast Hillsborough.
Eventually, much of the land was sold off in large tracts to developers, including Good, who developed 9,100 acres as Tampa Palms. In 1985 he convinced the city of Tampa to annex the land, which was barely contiguous to Tampa proper. It became the city’s largest annexation of residential acreage in 100 years.
Good’s grasp eventually exceeded his reach, but Tampa Palms survived his personal and financial travails, eventually inspiring a generation of developers to build similar master-planned communities, which are now the backbone of New Tampa: Hunter’s Green, West Meadows, Cory Lake Isles, Cross Creek, Heritage Isles, Pebble Creek, Richmond Place, Live Oak, Arbor Greene and Grand Hampton.
In 1993, business leaders formed the Northeast Area Council and christened the area New Tampa, a name intended to give it a distinct identity while firmly tying it to Tampa proper. Today the organization is known as the New Tampa Community Council.
There is nothing 30 years old in New Tampa—no trailer parks, no industrial development. And there aren’t any billboards, either.
Most New Tampa communities are gated and boast elaborate community centers with two or three swimming pools, spas, fitness facilities, walking and biking trails and parks. Single-family homes are priced from approximately $180,000 to $4 million. Many of New Tampa’s 30,000-plus residents relocated from out of state.
Not only are residents attracted to the amenities, the good school systems and the array of home prices, say realtors, but they’re also drawn by commercial and industrial facilities that are relocating to the area, including two giants that are fueling price increases: Depository Trust Corporation and Key Mobile.
Northwest Hillsborough
Carrollwood is a rapidly growing community 15 miles northwest of downtown Tampa. Lifetime resident and Real Estate Mart realtor Robbie Henderson explains its development in terms of two communities: “Original” Carrollwood and “New” Carrollwood.
Original Carrollwood is defined as the homes built from the 1950s through 1974 by developer Matt Jetton and his company, Sun State Builders. Those 983 homes, all with access to 200-acre Lake Carroll, sold from $20,000 to $40,000.
“The thing I always found fascinating was that to live on the lake, people paid an additional $1,000 to $2,000,” says Henderson. “The difference today is $400,000. We had one buyer that paid $650,000 just for a teardown.”
Original Carrollwood residents are enthusiastic about the community’s new recreation center and facilities for both lake parks that lie within its borders.
New Carrollwood is far more diverse, with 30 communities offering homes in many styles and price ranges: middle-income neighborhoods, such as Lake Magdalene and Northdale, and wealthy ones, such as Avila, where custom homes start at about 4,000 square feet. Among the more outrageous is the 40,000-square-foot mega-mansion of former corporate raider Paul Bilzerian.
Westchase, a 2,000-acre master-planned community on the Hillsborough-Pinellas county border, has been one of the area’s hottest communities since the early 1990s. Its first homes were built in traditional suburban fashion, but more recently the community has adopted a New Urbanist approach, with homes arranged around a multi-use town center called West Park Village.
Westchase, Citrus Park and Odessa seem to be merging into each other with new home communities continuing to open up just west and north of Westchase.
The once rural, rustic, northwest communities of Keystone and Odessa have been discovered by the moneyed. “If you drove through Keystone, you’d be blown away by all the lakes and million-dollar homes,” Henderson says.
South Tampa
Located just minutes southwest of downtown, South Tampa features the longest continuous sidewalk in the world—yes, the world—along beautiful Bayshore Boulevard overlooking Hillsborough Bay.
The bayfront is the site of Gasparilla, Tampa’s longest-running and most renowned event. Since 1904, the city’s movers and shakers in Ye Mystic Krewe Gasparilla have donned pirate garb, boarded a replica pirate ship and “invaded” the city. The colorful celebration, held each winter, has parades, balls, fireworks and other festivities.
But South Tampa is home to more than Gasparilla. It also boasts a huge number of eclectic neighborhoods.
The Palma Ceia Community and Country Club and Bayshore Yacht Club have traditionally been home to the city’s power-elite. But all of Bayshore Boulevard, with its majestic homes and its see-forever views, is a magnet for the wealthy. One prestigious address is Hyde Park, which has a healthy stock of renovated older homes and an eclectic outdoor shopping district called Hyde Park Village.
MacDill Air Force Base sits at the tip of the Interbay Peninsula.? Activated in 1941, MacDill became a major staging area for Army Air Corps flight crews and aircraft following the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor. The facility was featured in the 1955 movie Strategic Air Command, starring Jimmy Stewart.
Today, MacDill is home to the U.S. Special Operations Command. It gained international prominence during Operation Desert Shield and Operation Desert Storm as the home base of U.S. Central Command and Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf.
South Tampa also offers bicyclists and rollerbladers a link to Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County via the “old” Gandy Bridge to St. Petersburg. After a new bridge was completed in 1997, the circa-1924 span was spared demolition at citizens’ urging. Now, more than 500,000 people annually use the renamed Friendship Trail Bridge.
South Shore
South Shore is a relatively new name for an area previously known generically as “South County.” The rapidly developing South Shore region includes the communities of Apollo Beach, Riverview, Gibsonton, Ruskin and Sun City Center.? An estimated 15,000 new homes are on their way here and more are in the pipeline.
Accommodating the population growth will be a challenge to the area’s roads and infrastructure. Fortunately, the area has the benefit of coming after other areas where it didn’t work out so well.
The area’s new government services center and regional library bear the name of South Shore, further helping the area establish its own identity.
Following is a look at the five communities of South Shore from north to south.
Riverview, first named Peru, was settled on the banks of the Alafia River in 1856 and received its supplies from Tampa via a small steamboat. Now, thanks to modern roads, Riverview is just minutes from downtown yet maintains the feel of a small town, where residents can enjoy canoeing or fishing on the river or bay.
While the community is mostly built-out with single-family homes, it’s now seeing a wave of multifamily development and commercial projects, such as Westshore Development Group’s huge Riverview Town Center at U.S. 301 and Gibsonton Road.
Gibsonton enjoys a global reputation for its ties to circus performers who winter there and affectionately call it “Showtown USA.” The National Showmen’s Association is headquartered there, and a permanent museum is planned to commemorate the community’s wilder days. It’s still not uncommon to see a carnival booth parked in a front yard, or even an occasional elephant.
The local caf? Giant’s Camp, was founded by two retired sideshow performers, Al and Jeanie Tomaini, who were billed as “The World’s Strangest Married Couple.” Al was a giant, at eight feet, four inches tall, and Jeanie, who was born without legs or a pelvis, was billed as “The Only Living Half-Girl.”
Al and Jeanie have died, but Giant’s Camp remains a popular hangout.
Apollo Beach has a front-row waterfront seat on the bay as well as 55 miles of navigable canals, making it a haven for lovers of water sports. All that water provides a tranquil setting for outdoor events and festivals, including the Manatee Arts Festival. Visitors can learn even more about the gentle but fatally slow mammal at TECO Energy’s Manatee Viewing Center.
Most of Apollo Beach’s first homes were waterfront, ranch-style and modestly proportioned. Many are being remodeled, and an increasing number are being torn down to be replaced by mansions. One of the region’s newest and biggest master-planned communities, MiraBay, is located here.
Ruskin was founded in 1910 as a socialist colony by George M. Miller, a Chicago lawyer and educator. It was named for British social philosopher John Ruskin, an active promoter of art education and museums for the working class. But Ruskin is now more associated with the prized plump tomatoes grown there than with any social philosophy.
In addition to its tomato patches, the community at the mouth of the Little Manatee River also boasts sun-dappled inlets and bright bay waters, mangrove islands and marshy canoe trails, all perfect for fishing, boating and swimming.
Ruskin is experiencing unprecedented growth as new communities rise around its many lakes. Newland Communities, for example, is developing Covington Park and its latest project, Waterset, on the east side of U.S. 41, west of I-75.
Sun City Center, about 25 miles southeast of Tampa, was one of the nation’s first active-adult communities. It remains popular for busy 55-plus homebuyers. Residents enjoy more than 200 arts, social, craft and civic clubs as well as a plethora of activities and special events year-round. Then there’s the most popular activity of all—golf. The sprawling community is approaching buildout within a few years.
Plant City
Plant City, the self-proclaimed “Strawberry Capital of the United States,” is one of the area’s older communities. As early as 1839, Fort Hichipucksassa—named for an Indian village—was here, housing several hundred intrepid settlers.
In 1843, a town was platted bearing the same tongue-twisting name. But when a post office was established six years later, an Irish postmaster is said to have renamed the community Cork because of the not-so-surprising difficulty even locals encountered when trying to spell or pronounce the original moniker.
The area was incorporated as Plant City in 1885, but the name had nothing to do with agriculture; it refers to railroad magnate Henry B. Plant, who extended tracks to the burgeoning community.
Today, Plant City’s downtown is charming and picturesque, its brick streets lined with small shops, restaurants and antique emporiums. Three buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places.
“It’s a family-oriented community with character,” says Marion Smith, president of the Greater Plant City Chamber of Commerce.
Plant City is also the world headquarters of the International Softball Federation and the future site of the World Softball Hall of Fame. But it’s the city’s agricultural heritage that’s celebrated each spring during the city’s 11-day Strawberry Festival. The big event, which attracts more than 800,000 people, features sweet strawberry shortcake, big-name country musicians, rides and exhibits.
Despite its folksiness, Plant City’s days as a small town are numbered. The population has topped 33,000—still no metropolis—but about 6,000 homes have been approved for construction over the next five years. Another 40,000 people live just outside the city limits.
?“Just like every other area, things have slowed down a bit,” Smith says. “A year ago it was red-hot. Now it’s cooled, and a few developments have decided to postpone a year because of the market, not the community.”
New-home communities in Plant City include Magnolia Green, Reynolds Ridge, Trapnell Ridge and Walden Reserve. On deck are Eagles Crest and Lake Side.
Temple Terrace
Sandwiched between Tampa proper and New Tampa, Temple Terrace may appear to be just another difficult-to-distinguish suburb, but this city of 23,000 is one of only three municipalities in all of Tampa" target="_blank">Hillsborough County (the others are Tampa and Plant City) and has a rich history all its own.
Temple Terrace was originally conceived as a place where well-off, winter-weary Northerners could come to play golf and tend their own small citrus groves.
Burks Hamner, Vance Helm and D. Collins Gillette bought the land that would become Temple Terrace in 1920 and 1921 from the Potter Palmer family, who had been using it as a hunting preserve. The trio began carving home sites and a golf course out of dense woods. Grove acreage was set aside so that homebuyers could also become small-scale, gentlemen farmers.
The city of Temple Terrace, named for the temple orange, was incorporated in 1925. Sadly, however, most of the orange trees were wiped out by freezes in the winter of 1927 and 1928. The stock market crash in 1929 put an end to most development. Only the golf course and about 80 homes had been built by then. Some additional buildings, mostly connected with the golf course, also had been completed, but Hamner, Helm and Gillette’s downtown vision never materialized.
Residential development in Temple Terrace resumed during the housing boom following World War II. And although the city is now mostly built-out, planners have revived the idea of building a downtown district.
Among the sites of historic interest is Florida College, a Christian college founded in 1946. The original golf clubhouse is now the college’s Sutton Hall, and the Morocco Club casino is, ironically, its student union.
THONOTOSASSA
Located between New Tampa and Plant City, Thonotosassa was settled by the Seminole Indians and named for its abundant stocks of flint. With rolling hills, orange groves, mature trees and beautiful 900-acre Lake Thonotosassa, the area is drawing people seeking rural beauty near urban amenities.
Nestled on the lake’s eastern shore, Stonelake Ranch is very much Old Florida at its finest, occupying property that encompassed a working ranch until 2003. Now, where cattle once grazed are 160 estate-size home sites ranging from one and a half to eight acres. Residents enjoy miles of equestrian trails and a 100-acre open meadow for riding as well as dock access and water skiing.
Toulon is new to Thonotosassa. The private, gated community is set on a 30-acre lake and features four- to six-bedroom residences built by Mercedes Homes.
Beaches
Some of the region’s best beaches are in Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County, stretching north 35 miles from Fort De Soto to Fred H. Howard Park in Tarpon Springs. There are 12 beachfront communities, each with its own government and its own idiosyncrasies. Here are some beach community highlights.
Fort De Soto, a county park, was chosen the best beach in the United States again in 2005 by “Dr. Beach,” a.k.a. Dr. Stephen Leatherman, a coastal scientist who issues an annual Top 10 list of beaches. A visit will easily prove his wisdom; think generous drifts of sugar-soft sand combined with incredible views. There’s also a beachfront campground where even dogs are welcome.
For those seeking more luxurious beachfront accommodations, head south to the historic Don CeSar Beach Resort, a pink confection that opened in 1928.
Then, for a less formal drink and stroll, Pass-A-Grille’s Hurricane Restaurant is a perfect stop-off point. Climb to the top of this landmark eatery for a panoramic beach view.
There are three other substantial beach parks in Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County. Sand Key Park, on the tip of the Sand Key barrier island, overlooks Clearwater Pass and the Gulf of Mexico. Honeymoon Island State Recreation Area, just across the causeway from Dunedin, was originally marketed in the 1940s as a getaway for newlyweds, who were invited to ensconce themselves in quaint thatched huts.
If you’re looking to get even farther away, head to Caladesi Island. Accessible only by private boat or a ferry from Honeymoon Island, Caladesi is one of the few completely unspoiled islands left along Florida’s Gulf Coast. You can loll by the seashore or hike the three-mile nature trail through the island’s interior. Serious beach aficionados consider Caladesi’s shoreline to be pretty much unsurpassed.
If you’re looking for a single-family home along the Pinellas beaches, you’ll find little new construction. Condominiums, however, are popping up in many areas.
Madeira Bay is the new waterfront development across from the John’s Pass Village shopping area. It includes townhomes, condominiums, two restaurants and a 2,000-square-foot conference center.
Central Pinellas
While Pinellas residents play at the beaches, many live, work and shop in Central Pinellas. The cities of Seminole, Largo and Pinellas Park all seem to blend together, but their location in the middle of the Pinellas peninsula certainly makes them convenient.
Much of the county’s industrial heart is here, too. While tourism remains Pinellas’ biggest industry, manufacturing is making inroads. In fact, the county is second in the state in number of manufacturing employees.
Location has made condominiums near the west side of the Gandy Bridge popular for buyers who commute to Tampa yet want to remain close to Pinellas’ beaches and other amenities.
This densely populated area began booming in the late 19th century, when the Orange Belt Railroad made it a vital center of the Florida citrus industry.
Heritage Village, in Largo, is a testament to that era. The park encompasses a village made up of 22 structures, some dating back to the mid-19th century. There’s a log house, said to be the oldest existing structure in the county, and the Victorian-era Seven Gables House. You can even visit an old school, church, railroad depot and store.
Clearwater
When Scott Daniels met his future wife in Clearwater more than 20 years ago, he asked her to move up north with him and start their lives together. The idea received a less than enthusiastic response.
“I would never leave paradise!” Marcy Daniels emphatically told her husband-to-be. Today, Scott and Marcy are realtors for Coldwell Banker, selling Clearwater as their personal vision of the Garden of Eden.
The area’s charms were spotted early. Spanish explorers discovered freshwater springs burbling from tall bluffs overlooking the harbor and named the area Clear Water. The springs are now gone, but the name lives on.
Fort Harrison occupied the bluffs during the Seminole Indian War. The fort was built as a recuperation center for soldiers, offering views of Clearwater Harbor and the barrier island that is Clearwater Beach. Indeed, it’s hard to imagine a nicer place to heal. These days, that same harbor view is accessible to everyone at Clearwater’s Coachman Park, home to the annual Clearwater Jazz Holiday Weekend and other musical and athletic events.
Clearwater became the county seat when Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County separated from Tampa" target="_blank">Hillsborough County in 1912. It’s now the county’s second-largest municipality.
Tourism arrived early in Clearwater. When Henry Plant brought the railroad to town in 1897, he built the Belleview Biltmore Hotel on a bluff just south of Clearwater proper in Belleair. The 247-room wooden structure, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is now the Belleview Biltmore Resort.
While Clearwater is most famous as a winter tourist destination, it has evolved into a bustling year-round community.? The housing selection varies. A popular address remains Countryside, a master-planned country club community started by US Home in the late 1970s. Although it’s now built-out, the average price for resale homes is approaching $300,000, with million-dollar sales around the golf course becoming more common.
With land ever scarcer, new residential development in Clearwater tends to be multifamily. The 1,800-plus condominium units that are planned or are being built along the city’s waterfront and in its downtown will continue to alter the skyline. The $40 million Station Square, for example, with 126 units, is the first major new residential development downtown in 40 years.
But it’s the beaches, across the newly built Clearwater Memorial Causeway Bridge from downtown, that are seeing the most activity, as mom-and-pop motels are replaced with high-rises. The new fixed-span bridge to Clearwater Beach, which replaced the old drawbridge, makes access to these hot new communities even easier.
Dunedin
Dunedin’s small but robust downtown should be the envy of many other cities that have tried but failed to breathe new life into their city centers.
The catalyst for its renaissance was the Pinellas Trail, an abandoned railroad corridor that now delivers gaggles of thirsty skaters and bicyclists directly to Dunedin’s Main Street. Plenty of restaurants accommodate the crowds, some featuring outdoor seating.
Lucky Dunedin residents also have quick access to nationally ranked beaches across a causeway to Honeymoon Island State Park and via a ferry to Caladesi Island State Park.
Dunedin is the oldest city in Florida south of Cedar Key. It became a major seaport in the mid-1800s after a dock was built large enough to accommodate schooners and sloops. Originally called Jonesboro, after a general store owner, it got its present name in 1882 when two Scottish merchants circulated a petition calling for the post office to be named Dunedin, after the city in Scotland.
Proud of its Scottish heritage, modern-day Dunedin hosts a Highland Games each spring. Art lovers flock to the Dunedin Art Harvest each fall, while the Toronto Blue Jays come to town each year for spring training.
Waterfront properties, both single-family homes and condos, are extremely desirable, but inventory is tight.
Susan Littlejohn, owner and broker of Susan Littlejohn Realty, has lived in Dunedin since 1952. “Through all the development, the downtown has stayed very charming,” says Littlejohn, who’s also president of the Dunedin Historical Society. “We went into a slump in the early ’90s, and the Dunedin Merchants Association remade its image as cute and artsy. We lured new restaurants and we succeeded.”
Many of the vintage charmers lining Victoria Drive were built in the 1880s. “It’s a wonderful, shell-crunched drive that hasn’t changed in all this time, and nobody wants it to change,” Littlejohn says. “If you were visiting downtown you would never know this drive was there. When I’m showing clients our city, I save it for last.”
And what would a town with ties to Scotland be without a golf course? Donald Ross designed the original Dunedin Country Club course in 1927. The Dunedin Isles Country Club was privately held until the course was deeded to the city in 1938. Seven years later, the PGA leased the course and changed its name to the PGA National Golf Club, where it was headquartered during the 1950s.
In the 1970s, retirement condominium complexes such as Patrician Oaks, Heather Lakes, Douglas Arms and Heather Hills were built.
“Very few condos there are not intended for seniors,” Littlejohn says. “There are hundreds of these units; you’re lucky if there’s one on the market on any given day.”
But there are some luxurious new condominium projects under way, including the 18-unit Dunedin Grand, that aren’t age-restricted.
East Lake/Palm Harbor
East Lake and Palm Harbor sit side-by-side in northern Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County, divided by huge Lake Tarpon. Both communities are unincorporated, although Palm Harbor boasts a charming downtown with historic buildings. Thousands enjoy its many festivals, including the Palm Harbor Chamber Arts, Crafts and Musical Festival in December.
While most of Palm Harbor is built-out, two quaint villages with eclectic housing remain. Ozona, west of Alternate U.S. 19, is older than Palm Harbor and boasts its own post office as well as a popular circa-1900 recreation center, which was financed largely by bake-sale proceeds. The community, which began as a fishing village, was originally called Yellow Bluff because it sat on a high mound of yellow sand visible from the bay. The name was discarded because boosters feared it would bring to mind yellow fever.
The current, less frightening moniker may have been suggested by two doctors from Chicago and St. Louis who brought asthmatic patients to the area for treatment. Although “ozone” doesn’t have entirely favorable connotations today, at the time it was thought to suggest invigorating breezes.
A little north of Ozona—and decidedly off the beaten track—is Crystal Beach, a tiny, Key West-style community with an eclectic assortment of homes.
Until about 20 years ago, there were more cows than people in East Lake, which was home to sprawling Boot Ranch. Today, the only vestige of the community’s ranching heritage is the “Boot Ranch” name on a subdivision and an Albertsons/Target complex. A huge orange concrete cowboy boot that once marked the edge of Boot Ranch now welcomes grocery shoppers.
Most homes here are newer and built on larger lots or in master-planned communities. The county managed to keep one piece of land in the area pristine, however. The 8,000-acre Brooker Creek Preserve, located on the Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County border with Pasco County, is a wilderness oasis in the midst of suburbia.
While most people call the area East Lake, residents typically have Palm Harbor, Oldsmar or Tarpon Springs addresses.
Unsurprisingly, the real estate market is strong in both East Lake and Palm Harbor. While homes no longer sell within minutes of going on the market, as they did during the housing boom’s peak, activity remains brisk. Two of the newest communities are Grand Cypress on Lake Tarpon and Blackstone Estates.
Another reason for the area’s popularity is the presence of nationally ranked Palm Harbor University High School.
Oldsmar
Maybe it makes sense that a city founded by Ransom E. Olds, of Oldsmobile automobile fame, was until recently mostly thought of as a place you had to drive through to get somewhere else.
Indeed, for decades Oldsmar was best known for its huge flea market and the nearby Tampa Bay Downs horse track. But local boosters wised up in recent years, recognizing that the city’s strategic location at the top of Tampa Bay and on Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County’s border with Tampa" target="_blank">Hillsborough County made it a desirable relocation destination for business, manufacturing and industry.
And even as road widening made the trip through the center of Oldsmar faster, motorists started finding more reasons to slow down and stop. One of the region’s largest movie houses, AMC Woodlands 20, is located here. A variety of retailers put down roots. And, in a business recruiting coup, A.C. Nielsen, the research firm that measures television viewership, relocated its international headquarters here from Dunedin in 2004.
Oldsmar is two distinct communities in many ways. The southern part, tucked between Tampa Road and Old Tampa Bay, is the portion founded by R.E. Olds. But many of the modest older homes that sit on the city’s long shoreline on the top of Tampa Bay are being demolished and replaced with pricey mansions.
North of Tampa Road, in The Estuary at Mobbly Bay, Hannah Bartoletta Homes is building about 80 custom homes with prices starting at $650,000.
And two mixed-use projects with residential elements are planned. The Oldsmar Galleria, with shops, offices and condominiums, will be in the redeveloped Town Center area along State Street. The city is negotiating with the same developer for Olds Square, a 600,000-square-foot office and retail project with 100 to 125 residential units.
Jerry Custin, president and CEO of the Upper Tampa Bay Regional Chamber of Commerce, says a new downtown library is just the tip of the development spear. Three new retail-office projects are now complete, and several major employers are moving in, including the corporate headquarters of Sarah Coventry, a Progressive Insurance claims?center and DSC Sales.
Safety Harbor
The springs bubbling up on the shores of Tampa Bay first brought people to Safety Harbor. The Timucuan Indians, who called the area Tocobaga, were here when the Spanish explorers Panfilo de Navarez and Hernando de Soto dropped by. De Soto, who was seeking the legendary Fountain of Youth, was particularly interested in the springs, which he named Espiritu Santo.
The springs continue to lure those seeking to stem the ravages of age. The world-famous Safety Harbor Spa and Resort, which attracts visitors from across the country, is built over the springs and still uses its healthful waters for some spa treatments.
But mostly, Safety Harbor remains a bedroom community for Tampa.
“Its close proximity to Tampa is a real attraction,” says Coldwell Banker’s Marcy Daniels. “Each neighborhood offers a variety of different housing styles. Its brick streets are lined with century-old shade trees, and many bayfront homes have a view of Tampa’s skyline.”
Safety Harbor also was home to the first non-native settler on the Tampa" target="_blank">Pinellas County peninsula. Count Odet Philippe, who claimed to be the personal physician of Napoleon Bonaparte, acquired 160 acres of land here in 1842.
Philippe is credited with introducing citrus growing and cigar making to the area. The 122-acre Philippe Park, overlooking the bay, was part of the original Philippe plantation. Moderately hilly and shaded by large oaks, the park provides a cool respite on a sunny day.
St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg has undergone a complete personality change in the past 15 years. The once-sleepy city, formerly nicknamed “Heaven’s Waiting Room” for its plethora of senior citizens, is now bursting at the seams with new energy, new residents and new architecture.
In other words, this isn’t your grandfather’s St. Petersburg anymore. In fact, the burgeoning city is a leader in urban redevelopment, channeling a series of bold new projects into its downtown waterfront district. A slew of hotels, condominium towers, museums, restaurants and retail shops are either under way or on the drawing board.
Downtown St. Pete is already vibrant. There’s BayWalk, with restaurants, shopping and a 20-screen movie theater. Baseball lovers can cheer on the Tampa Bay Devil Rays at Tropicana Field. And the city becomes an urban racetrack once a year when the Honda Grand Prix of St. Petersburg comes to town.
Good restaurants, antique shops, a historic pier and a series of waterfront parks along Tampa Bay add up to a community that ranks high on any quality-of-life index.
“St. Petersburg is undergoing a classic urban revitalization,” says Tourtelot Brothers realtor Mary Potter.?
Realtors are seeing another interesting phenomenon: families buying condominiums in town so the youngsters can be closer to their grandparents.
“For a long time, we couldn’t find any children here,” says Potter. “That’s changing by the hour.”
St. Petersburg proper got its start in 1875, when developer John Williams of Detroit bought 2,500 acres of land on Tampa Bay. He planned a city with parks and broad streets, features still there today.
But while Williams had a vision for a city, it was a Russian aristocrat who helped him make the vision a reality. Williams made a deal with Piotr Alexeitch Dementieff, an exile of noble birth, offering him an interest in the land if Dementieff would build a railroad into the territory. In 1888, the enterprising Russian, who had simplified his name to Peter Demens, made good on his part of the deal when the first train on the Orange Belt Line chugged into town carrying empty freight cars and a shoe salesman from Savannah.
The rail line was costly, however, and Demens fell into debt. The situation became so dire that laborers and creditors were constantly threatening to lynch him for nonpayment.
But Demens did get something in return for his effort. The story goes that Williams and Demens tossed a coin to decide a new name for the town. Demens won, and the city was dubbed St. Petersburg, after the majestic Russian city from which he hailed. As a consolation prize, Williams named the city’s first hotel, The Detroit, after his own Michigan hometown.
Downtown St. Petersburg is surrounded by neighborhoods boasting plenty of trees, wide streets and sidewalks ideal for evening strolls. Old Northeast, for example, is a shady historic district dating back to the early part of the 20th century with many architectural styles, including Bungalow, Colonial, Mediterranean and even Prairie-style homes.
Residents enjoy a waterfront city park with an Olympic-size pool, tennis courts, baseball fields, walking/biking trails, yoga on the beach, watching dolphins in Coffepot Bayou, and a series of dog parks. The area is convenient to downtown shindigs, and Vinoy Park, adjacent to the restored Renaissance Vinoy Resort, hosts concerts and art festivals.
“The Old Northeast is attractive to young, upper-income couples and families with children who enjoy the big neighborhood trick-or-treating Halloween events,” Potter says. “I also find that retired couples who enjoy early-morning and evening walks in the park are drawn to the Old Northeast.” Other Old Northeast neighborhoods include Coffee Pot Bayou, Snell Isle, Placido Bayou and Mirror Lake.
The Old Southeast, a rapidly evolving community that starts where the University of South Florida St. Petersburg campus, Salvador Dali Museum and Poynter Institute for Media Studies end, is equally dynamic and desirable—but somewhat more affordable.
This area offers its own assortment of distinctive historic homes, many either on Tampa Bay or just a short walk away. And prices are about 70 percent of what comparable homes in the Old Northeast might cost.
“A bay view is a bay view,” Potter says. “People want water, water, water. Water is liquid gold.”
Also surrounding the Old Southeast are other alluring older neighborhoods, including Roser Park and Bayboro.
Tarpon Springs
More than 100 years ago, Greek sponge fishermen left Key West for Tarpon Springs when plentiful beds of the squishy sea creatures were discovered off the coast.
Their impact was immediate and lasting. To this day, Tarpon Springs remains steeped in Greek culture. The Chamber of Commerce uses Greek alphabet characters along with traditional lettering on its Web site. Honey-laced baklava is a common dessert at restaurants. And St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral, a replica of St. Sophia in Constantinople, remains a focal point.
“Tarpon Springs’ connection to its Greek community is enviable and special,” says realtor Marcy Daniels of Coldwell Banker. “The flavor of this city is a blend of Mediterranean and modern Florida.”
The annual Jan. 6 celebration of Epiphany, the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist, is thought to be the biggest Epiphany celebration in the Western Hemisphere, attended by tens of thousands.
But there’s plenty to see and do here all year round. Tourists flock to the historic sponge docks on the Anclote River, where there are shops and educational exhibits showing the cumbersome diving suits once worn by sponge divers.
Not surprisingly, new residential construction has reached unprecedented levels. High-end townhomes are rising on the scenic Anclote River for the first time.
City and county government recognized in recent years that the world was discovering Tarpon Springs and set about prettying things up; the biggest Florida Department of Transportation road project in Tarpon Springs’ history started last year. The $12 million project includes resurfacing two miles of Alternate U.S. 19 and one mile of Tarpon Avenue, mostly in the city’s redevelopment area, and installing new sidewalks, landscaping, historic street lighting, benches and bicycle racks.
Pasco County once had a split personality. The west-side communities of Holiday, New Port Richey and Port Richey were developed primarily for Midwestern retirees, who flocked to small, inexpensive homes up and down the U.S. 19 corridor.
Meanwhile, the county’s east side, anchored by Dade City, remained vintage Florida. With the exception of Zephyrhills, which was (and still is) invaded by winter residents, the east side was populated mostly by natives, many of whom were longtime ranchers or citrus growers.
But in recent years, as both Hillsborough and Pinellas counties have begun to run out of developable land, growth has begun marching steadily into Pasco, changing old assumptions and diversifying the demographics.
New subdivisions have been appearing along the entire width of the C.R. 54 corridor on Pasco’s southern boundary, stretching from Trinity on the west to Zephyrhills on the east. Younger, first-time buyers for whom affordability is paramount are snapping up the small homes once owned by retirees.
On the east side, New Tampa’s growth has impacted Wesley Chapel and Zephyrhills, where pastures and groves are giving way to neighborhoods. And in the central part of the county, around Land O’ Lakes, the new Suncoast Parkway has opened up huge tracts for family-oriented, master-planned communities.
As a result, Pasco County’s population climbed 45 percent from 1990 to 2004.
“The demand for land is like nothing I’ve ever seen before,” says Dewey Mitchell, part of a pioneering Pasco ranching family and co-owner of Prudential Tropical Realty, one of the top three real estate companies in Tampa Bay.
“While real estate prices have climbed sharply in recent years, we’re still a good value,” says Mitchell. “After 20 years around here without much appreciation, we’re really just now reaching the national median home price.”
New-home permitting in Pasco County has reached historic highs, climbing from 2,931 single-family permits issued in 2000 to 7,600 issued in 2005. Earlier th