VOLUSIA COUNTY: BEACHES AND BEYOND

FROM QUAINT SMALL TOWNS TO OCEANFRONT BOARDWALKS, VOLUSIA COUNTY IS A PICTURE-POSTCARD VERSION OF FLORIDA.

By Jim Abbott

From the World’s Most Famous Beach to ferneries and farmland far from sand and surf, Volusia County offers plenty of diversions in its roughly 1,400 square miles. Here’s a look at the area’s considerable charms, from the surfers of the Atlantic Ocean to the annual influx of manatees at one of the county’s famous springs.   

DAYTONA BEACH: FAMOUS FOR FUN

For many years, the boardwalk on the “World’s Most Famous Beach” actually looked a trifle sad, like the setting for one of those wistful Bruce Springsteen ballads about hard times on the Jersey Shore.

Fortunately, a recent renovation has revitalized the hub of Daytona’s beachside tourism. An inviting new double-deck pier opened in the summer of 2012, anchored by a Joe’s Crab Shack seafood restaurant as well as places to order pizza or flavored ice, the latter sold as the psychedelically labeled “Tide Ice.”

It’s an inviting spot for a stroll. And you don’t have to be a diner to lounge on the Crab Shack’s upstairs deck, an open-air space with plenty of seats, a cooling breeze and ocean view. Grab a spot at the bar or recline in one of several barber-style chairs next to the wooden railings, convenient spots to pretend you’re in one of those TV beer commercials that turn any occasion into a beach day.

On the other end of the boardwalk, the historic Daytona Beach Bandshell hosts an ongoing series of weekend concerts by popular rock ‘n’ roll tribute bands that channel the spirit of famous acts from Fleetwood Mac to AC/DC.

Away from the gentle ocean breezes, Daytona Beach is most famous for the championship stock car racing at the Daytona International Speedway and the roar of Harley-Davidson motorcycles at the annual Bike Week celebrations. 

Yet the city also boasts quieter charms. 

Bookstores, record shops and other independent businesses populate the compact business district around International Speedway Boulevard and Beach Street, just at the foot of the big bridge from the mainland to the beachside.

Daytona Books & Metaphysics (125 W. International Speedway Blvd.) carries more than 20,000 volumes — everything from paperback copies of War and Peace to summer beach reading. It’s also the place to stock up on Lucky Karma beads, stress-relief candles and tumbled stones.

Across the street, Atlantic Sounds has been the go-to spot for affordable used vinyl albums, CDs, T-shirts, audio gear and rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia.

Around the corner on Beach Street, there’s another terrific independent bookstore with a long history in the neighborhood. With books stacked from the floors to the high ceiling, Abraxas Books (256 S. Beach St.) exudes the nostalgic vibe of walking into your grandfather’s study.

Beach Street also features an array of restaurants, so you can enjoy your new book over lunch.

NEW SMYRNA BEACH: A QUIET GEM

A beach destination nestled along the Indian River and the Atlantic Ocean in southern Volusia County, New Smyrna Beach provides a quieter alternative to the party-oriented vibe of Daytona Beach to the north and Cocoa Beach to the south.

The main attraction, of course, is the 13 miles of white-sand beaches, but there’s plenty to do without getting sand in your shoes. Art galleries, museums, antiques shops and an array of laid-back bars and eateries compete for attention with the waves that have made the beach a longtime surfing mecca.

The city’s Waterfront Loop is a 6-mile rectangular route that encompasses historic business districts on Flagler Avenue and Canal Street, as well as nearby beachside diversions. On pedestrian-friendly Flagler Avenue, beachside across the South Causeway, there’s a mix of touristy souvenir outlets, cool art galleries and surf shops. 

Among the latter is Nichols Surf Shop, a beachside fixture since 1969. The shop rents surfboards, body boards, wet suits, kayaks, small sailboats, bikes and other sporting equipment. Surfing lessons also are available. 

Next door, you can grab a bite at the funky Nichols Surf Café, which touts the “best porch for people-watching on Flagler Avenue.”

On the mainland, across the North Causeway, the Canal Street Historic District showcases historic architecture, tree-lined sidewalks and an assortment of less-beachy antique shops, galleries and attractions, including the New Smyrna Museum of History.

The four-block business district serves as the backdrop for a busy schedule of events that includes a weekly farmers’ market, monthly Art Stroll/Gallery Walk and Car Show, and annual celebrations such as the seasonal Christmas on Canal Street and the Art Fiesta, an outdoor festival that has been a tradition for more than 50 years.

Take South Atlantic Avenue (S.R. A1A) south for 7 miles until it dead-ends at the gates to Canaveral National Seashore and its unspoiled stretches of sand and surf at the southern end of New Smyrna Beach. The park has more than 1,000 plant species and 310 bird species, including Southern bald eagles and Florida scrub-jays. Loggerhead, green and leatherback sea turtles also have been spotted.

Just north of the park entrance, JB’s Fish Camp is an authentic Old Florida spot for steamed oysters, fried grouper sandwiches and beer on an outdoor deck where dolphin sightings aren’t uncommon. 

PONCE INLET: STEP INTO HISTORY

Who needs to go to the gym when there’s an aerobic way to experience a breathtaking view of Florida history?

Rest assured, you’ll burn plenty of calories when you trek the 203 steps of the spiral staircase that leads to the 175-foot pinnacle of the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse (ponceinlet.org), the tallest in Florida and the second-tallest masonry lighthouse in the United States.

There’s a museum, conveniently located on the ground floor, featuring exhibits on Daytona Beach and Florida history; lighthouse and Fresnel lens restoration; shipwrecks and the lifestyle of the lighthouse era. The Ayres Davies Lens Exhibit Building houses one of the best collections of restored Fresnel lenses in the world, including the rotating first order Fresnel lens from the Cape Canaveral lighthouse and the restored original Ponce Inlet lens.

Ponce Inlet, south of Daytona Beach on the Atlantic Ocean, has been transformed a bit by the presence of lofty condominiums and palatial homes along the Halifax River, but it still retains the vibe of a sleepy fishing village.

Charter boats cast off daily for deep-sea fishing excursions, and the beaches (including a pet-friendly one) remain quiet havens that provide a respite from the more popular patches of sand in Daytona Beach and New Smyrna Beach.

For seafood with a view, stop at Down the Hatch, only a few blocks from the lighthouse. The restaurant’s big glass windows offer a postcard-worthy view of the river that’s terrific at sunset. Pelicans pose at point-blank range on the pilings that ring the wooden building. And it isn’t unusual to see dolphins leaping playfully out of the water, an example of the aquatic wildlife that still abounds.  

Anglers can take an excursion at Critter Fleet Deep Sea Fishing (critterfleet.com), or you can learn about sea turtle rehabilitation at the Marine Science Center (marinesciencecenter.com). 

ORMOND BEACH: A NATURAL ROAD TRIP

There’s more natural wonder in northern Volusia County, where the Ormond Loop offers a scenic stretch of highway that’s among the most beautiful in Florida. 

In Ormond Beach, north of Daytona Beach, S.R. 40 intersects with the Loop, a gorgeous showcase of unspoiled Florida. The 22-mile route goes north from Ormond Beach on Beach Street through Tomoka State Park, then meanders along Highbridge Road and Walter Boardman Lane before turning — reluctantly, it seems — toward civilization.

There’s history in Ormond Beach, too.

John D. Rockefeller was the richest man on the planet when he bought the Casements, his retirement home in Ormond Beach, in 1918. Named after the casement windows that face the Halifax River, the residence has seen both glory days and disrepair. Now, it’s a bustling center of community activity as well as a favorite tourist stop.

The Casements features exhibit space for local and regional artists and also hosts an array of classes on yoga, Tai Chi, woodcarving and other topics. At Rockefeller Gardens, across Riverside Drive along the riverbank, there are weekly farmer’s markets, occasional outdoor movies and other events.

A guided tour of the house takes about 30 minutes. It includes visits to the living room, dining room and kitchen on the main floor, as well as many of the 11 bedrooms and bathrooms up the spiral staircases on the second and third floors.

For all his money, Rockefeller was known for his frugality, a museum guide once told me. He decorated the house with second-hand furniture, although he also was never without dimes in his pockets to hand out to local children.

Historic pictures that line the walls offer a glimpse of Casements life in Rockefeller’s day, including shots of such famous visitors as Thomas Edison, Henry Ford and Will Rogers. Others document the building’s days of decline, when it became a vagrants’ haven for a time after Rockefeller’s death in 1937. Those days, thankfully, are in the past. 

CASSADAGA: A SPIRITUAL RETREAT

Incorporated in 1894, the Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp Meeting Association is ground zero for psychic encounters in a tranquil community between DeLand and Lake Helen in Southwest Volusia County.

T-shirts for sale in the bookstore tout Cassadaga as a place where “Mayberry meets the Twilight Zone.” Strolling past the tiny wood-frame cottages dotting the gently hilly landscape, the only disruptions to the Mayberry vibe are signs advertising psychic readings and a few odd street names. You’ll want a picture of the intersection of Spiritualist Street and Mediumship Way.

Cassadaga (cassadaga.com) offers a busy schedule of walking tours, orb encounters and other events. The camp’s bookstore offers a formidable selection of books about traditional spiritualism and metaphysics, as well as music CDs, crystals, stones, jewelry and Native American crafts.

The bookstore also is the place to register for tours and events. Walking tours embark at 2 p.m. Thursdays and Fridays and at 3 p.m. Saturdays. Cost is $15 adults, $7.50 for ages 12 and under. Nighttime “Encounter the Spirit” orb tours start at 7:30 p.m. Saturdays. Guests are encouraged to bring digital cameras to take photos that might reveal energy orbs.

Stop for lunch at Sinatra’s L’Aldila Ristorante, in the lobby of the Cassadaga Hotel, for an assortment of burgers, pressed Italian sandwiches and pasta. Decorated in 1920s style, the hotel is, of course, said to be haunted. With rates that start at $55, it won’t cost you much to find out.

DELAND: A DOSE OF SOUTHERN CHARM

Even without the lure of a beach, DeLand has built a reputation as a road-trip worthy destination in southwest Volusia County, about midway between Orlando and Daytona Beach.

Volusia’s county seat prevailed over the well-established quaintness of Mount Dora in Lake County to win the 2013 “Other Best Downtown” reader poll in the Orlando Sentinel. With its mix of galleries, quirky eateries, independent businesses and the hipness of Stetson University’s downtown presence, DeLand exudes all the charms that one would expect from a historic Southern town anchored by a liberal arts college.  

And the destination is winning new fans all the time. 

Singer-songwriter John Mellencamp admired the place at the opening of a 2014 exhibit of his paintings at the Museum of Art DeLand: “I never could figure out why anyone would want to live in the middle of Florida,” he said. “There’s no ocean. There’s big bugs. But when we were driving into town, I said, ‘Look at this architecture!’ I like to see your old houses.” 

High praise from a guy who, famously, grew up in a small town.

DELEON SPRINGS: A COOL ESCAPE

There must be something that feels better on a blistering hot summer day than wading into the 72-degree water at DeLeon Springs State Park — about a dozen miles north of DeLand on U.S. Highway 17 in southwest Volusia County — but it’s hard to imagine what it might be.

This only-in-Florida gem, nestled against a rural backdrop of farms and ferneries, combines the old-fashioned swimming-hole experience with a unique twist: The do-it-yourself breakfast tradition at the rustic Old Spanish Sugar Mill Restaurant.  

In a 100-year-old replica of a 19th-century sugar mill, the menu features all-you-can-eat pancakes that you make at your table for $4.95 per person. 

Made with unbleached white flour and the Sugar Mill’s own blend of five fresh stone-ground flours, the flapjacks come accompanied by raw honey, syrup and molasses. For a bit extra, you can add apple or banana slices, blueberries, applesauce, pecans, peanut butter or chocolate chips.

Outside, a circular swimming area is ringed by a paved walkway and grassy sunbathing areas. You can rent canoes, kayaks and paddle boats, survey the area’s history at the visitor center or explore one of several tree-shaded nature trails.

Hike the 4.2 mile Wild Persimmon Hiking Trail or take a shorter stroll on a ½-mile paved nature trail that features a 600-year-old cypress tree.  A butterfly garden has about 500 plants known for attracting butterflies and hummingbirds.

The Fountain of Youth Eco/Heritage boat tour departs four times daily on a 50-minute trip through nearby Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge, where alligators and birds abound. 

Or bring along a book to chill in one of the wooden rocking chairs on the porch that overlooks the spring. 

FOUR TOWNS: PARKS APLENTY 

A generation ago the Four Towns moniker linked the southwest Volusia bedroom communities of DeBary, Deltona, Orange City and Lake Helen.

Then, the communities were dominated by retirees, especially Deltona. Developed by the Mackle Brothers in the early 1960s, Deltona has evolved from its origins as a haven for the elderly to become the largest city in Volusia County, with a population of roughly 90,000. 

Like DeBary, Orange City and Lake Helen, it’s a bedroom community for commuters employed in Orlando and Daytona Beach. Deltona features 112 acres of public parks, ranging from fishing piers and boat landings to fields and courts for youth sports.

Parks also are a priority in DeBary, Orange City and Lake Helen. In DeBary, Gemini Springs Park encompasses 210 acres that include two springs, bike and hiking trails, canoe rentals, camping, fishing and picnic areas. 

In Orange City, Blue Spring State Park is the focus of the annual Blue Spring Manatee Festival, an annual celebration of the sea cows that return to the park from mid-November through March. In season, several hundred manatees can be viewed from the spring’s overlooks.

Known for its Victorian architecture and quiet streets, tiny Lake Helen boasts seven parks in its 24 square miles in southwest Volusia. There’s an emphasis on equestrian activities, including regular horse shows and riding competitions at the Lake Helen Equestrian Center.

BARBERVILLE: A PLACE FOR PIONEERS 

Established in 1976 by a group of Volusia County teachers, the Barberville Settlement for the Creative Arts offers a glimpse into Florida’s rural past through authentic buildings and demonstrations of traditional skills.

Nestled in rural surroundings on S.R. 40, just west of U.S. Highway 17 in Barberville, the interactive exhibits of 19th-century Florida life include the Pierson Railroad Depot (circa 1885), the Astor Bridge Tender’s House (circa 1926), a turpentine still (circa 1924) and the Lewis Log Cabin (circa 1975).

The pioneer lifestyle is showcased through a steady stream of school field trips as well as popular annual events such as the Fall Country Jamboree, established in 1986. The Jamboree features folk music, a juried arts and crafts show, corn boil, sugarcane boil and living history demonstrations.

PIERSON: A BLOOMING DESTINATION

It’s no tourist magnet, but rural Pierson is renowned as the “Fern Capital of the World.”

The town’s signature crop, sheltered in shaded greenhouses on more than 6,000-acres of farmland, accounts for 85 percent of all the floral ferns sold in the United States, according to county officials.

For visitors, the fields offer a scenic backdrop for the small-town vibe reflected in a business district that includes a post office, tiny grocery store, cemetery and not much else along U.S. Highway 17 in northwest Volusia County.

Pierson’s other claim to fame is touted on welcome signs at the city limits: Retired Atlanta Braves superstar Chipper Jones was raised here and first played baseball on Pierson’s field of dreams. 

LIVING THE DREAM

Selected Volusia County Builders and Communities.

FEATURED BUILDERS

D.R. HORTON HOMES

drhorton.com

Edgewater

• Edgewater Lakes. Single-family homes from the $140s. Situated along the Indian River and adjacent to the Mosquito Lagoon, Edgewater Lakes is perfect for lovers of the water. Edgewater is a great fishing town, with plenty of charters and sightseeing tours. Numerous golf courses are nearby, as are the beaches.

Daytona Beach 

• Grande Champion at LPGA International. Townhomes from the $140s. A true golfer’s paradise, Grande Champion boasts three floorplans from which to choose and is host to two world-class, four-star courses as rated by Golf Digest. Other amenities include a community pool and cabana. Daytona Beach and Daytona International Speedway are just minutes away. 

• Tuscany. Townhomes from the $150s. Low-maintenance community across the street from Robert Strickland Park, with two softball fields, a BMX course, a playground, a basketball court and a remote-controlled car race track. 

Port Orange

• Port Orange Plantation. Single-family homes from the high $170s. Just minutes from shopping, schools and beaches, this community offers gorgeous views of water and conservation areas. Choose from several spacious, energy-efficient floorplans.

FRETWELL HOMES

fretwellhomes.com

Ormond Beach

• Briargate at Hunter’s Ridge. Single-family homes, call for current pricing. A neighborhood of 70 homesites within an established master-planned community. Amenities include tennis courts, walking trails, parks and a fishing dock as well as a pool and clubhouse. 

• Gardens at Addison. Townhomes from $169,000. A low-maintenance townhome community with amenities including a pool and community building. Concrete block exterior walls, tile roofs, hurricane-resistant windows.

HENIN HOMES

heninhomes.com

Debary

• Riviera Bella. Single-family homes from the $200s to $4 million-plus. A Mediterranean-style, guard-gated community nestled along the banks of the St. Johns River. Amenities include a private clubhouse, resort-style pool, workout facility, movie room and billiards room. There’s also a private boat ramp and viewing dock, and the SunRail station is nearby. New Smyrna Beach and the DeBary Gold & Country Club are a short drive.

ICI HOMES

icihomes.com

Ormond Beach 

• Breakaway Trails. Single-family homes from the $370s. A private, guard-gated community of small neighborhoods surrounded by nature preserves. Amenities include a clubhouse with a community pool, and tennis courts. 

• Chelsea Place. Single-family homes from the $270s. A private, gated community with to tree-lined streets, lakes with fountains, pocket parks and gazebos, as well as a clubhouse featuring a personal fitness center, a beach-entry swimming pool and children’s playground. 

Plantation Bay –Plantation 

• Bay Golf and Country Club. Townhomes from the $190s, single-family homes from the $230s, estate homes from the $500s. A resort-style community features two clubhouses, a 7,000-square-foot spa and fitness center, Har-Tru tennis courts and championship golf courses. 

Port Orange 

• Water’s Edge. Single-family homes from the $250s. A family-oriented community highlighted by a grand entrance with fountains and dotted by pristine lakes. Now in its final phase, so act quickly.

KOLTER HOMES

kolterhomes.com

Deland

• Cresswind at Victoria Gardens. Single-family homes from the high $190s. Gated, active-adult neighborhood within the master-planned community of Victoria Park, featuring a private club with ballroom, health and fitness facility, card and billiard room, café, aquatic center, tennis center, and arts and crafts room. A lifestyle director on site, and an array of clubs, recreational, educational, cultural and social programs are offered. Residents have access to neighboring Victoria Hills Golf Club. 

M/I HOMES

mihomes.com

Debary

• Riviera Bella. Single-family homes from the $260s. A Mediterranean-style, guard-gated community nestled along the banks of the St. Johns River. Amenities include a private clubhouse, resort-style pool, workout facility, movie room and billiards room. There’s also a private boat ramp and viewing dock, and the SunRail station is nearby. New Smyrna Beach and the DeBary Gold & Country Club are a short drive.

OLSEN CUSTOM HOMES 

olsencustomhomes.com

Palm Coast

• Wild Oaks at Grand Haven. Single-family homes, call for current pricing. A neighborhood of estate homes on large homesites within an established, master-planned community. Amenities include a private Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course and miles of walking trails overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway. This community is in Flagler County.

TAYLOR MORRISON HOMES

taylormorrison.com

Deland

• Saddlebrook. Single-family homes from the $160s. A 322-homesite community located near Deland, a vibrant college town — Stetson University is the state’s oldest institute of higher learning — boasting historic architecture, a bustling arts and culture scene and genuine Southern hospitality. Amenities include a community pool and cabana. 

VINTAGE ESTATE HOMES

vintageestatehomes.com

Ormond Beach

• Ashford Lakes. Single-family homes from the low $300s. A neighborhood of 77 homesites in the established master-planned community of Hunter’s Ridge. The 88-acre site includes five man-made lakes and abundant nature preserves. Amenities include swimming pools, tennis courts, playgrounds and a clubhouse.

Debary

• DeBary Golf & Country Club. Single-family homes from the low $200s. A semiprivate country club community with a golf course and a clubhouse including men’s and ladies’ locker rooms, a pro shop, a state-of-the-art fitness facility, and casual and fine dining options.  

FEATURED COMMUNITY

VENETIAN BAY

venetianbay.info

New Smyrna Beach

A luxurious 1,425-acre master-planned resort community ideal for families, retirees and everyone in between. From the white-sand beaches of the nearby Atlantic Ocean to the treacherous sand of an 18th-hole bunker; from a light lunch at the poolside tiki bar to a lazy stroll along 20 miles of paved nature paths; Venetian Bay has something for everyone. In addition to the championship golf course, amenities include a swim club, a fitness center and walking and biking trails as well as an onsite Italian restaurant. Builders include D.R. Horton Homes, the Johnson Group, Paytas Homes, Platinum Builders and Stanley Homes, offering everything from golf villas to estate homes in the community’s various neighborhoods, including Arbor Lakes, Portofino Estates, Portofino Reserve, Savannah Pointe and Savona North and South.