THE LURE OF LAKE COUNTY

SMALL TOWNS, NATURAL SPLENDOR AND AN EASYGOING AMBIANCE ARE ATTRACTING NEW RESIDENTS.

By Gary McKechnie

If you had a machine that could turn back time, in some ways Lake County circa 2015 could be Orange County circa 1955. Here you still find huge tracts of untrammeled land, down-home diners, quiet country roads and pristine lakes. 

But Lake County is growing, as would-be homebuyers find the rural ambience, charming small towns and natural beauty an almost irresistible lure.

Carved out of Orange and Sumter counties in 1887, Lake County is the next-door neighbor of Orange and Sumter, of course, as well as Volusia, Seminole, Osceola, Polk and Marion counties as well. 

With a population of approximately 30,000, Clermont is its largest city, and from there urban density is sprinkled among a handful of smaller cities (Leesburg, Eustis, Tavares, Mount Dora) and a smattering of unincorporated rural communities (Altoona, Okahumpka, Yalaha, Paisley).

It would be quite a challenge to see all of Lake County’s 1,157 square miles, since much of it is well off the beaten path within the Green Swamp and Ocala National Forest. 

In fact, because of the county’s geographic size, a fixed-route transportation service, LakeXpress, was launched in 2007. The bus service runs every hour from Lady Lake to Mount Dora, with circulator routes in the cities of Leesburg and Mount Dora. The service was designed to ease daily commutes along U.S. Hwy. 441. 

But we’re not going to work today — we’re going sightseeing. So, on a roughly circular tour you can see some of the county’s coolest places. A nice starting point would be: 

MOUNT DORA

Follow U.S. Hwy. 441 north from Orlando and 30 miles later you’ll roll into what is known as the “New England of Central Florida.” 

Set among rolling hills and the broad waters of 4,500-acre Lake Dora, the town’s popularity is centered upon its shopping village, where independent merchants (no chain stores here) attract thousands of visitors with antiques, boutiques, bookstores, art galleries, wine dens and sidewalk cafes.

Another lure is a calendar of events highlighted by October’s Arts Festival and February’s Craft Fair, which attract an average of 300,000 visitors — each. 

There’s also February’s Music Festival centered largely within the renovated $3.2 million community building, followed by holiday parades on the 4th of July and Christmas. 

In keeping with the town’s reputation for antiques, throughout the year Renninger’s, a nationally recognized, 117-acre weekend marketplace of the magnificent and the obscure, accents its calendar with mini-fairs and three highly anticipated extravaganzas that attract approximately 1,800 dealers — and many, many more treasure hunters.

Overall, Mount Dora’s sleepy Southern veneer, cultural activities and a three-phase makeover of the Community Redevelopment Agency (CRA) district — which is currently in the middle of Phase 2 — have made this picture-postcard city one of the Central Florida’s most popular and visited destinations.

Incorporated: 1910       Population: 12,665       mountdora.com

MINNEOLA

If you visit Minneola and stay indoors, you’re in the wrong place. Located 22 miles south of Mount Dora, this town’s most popular sights are on the water and along the route of an old railroad track.

When the town merged its South Lake/Minneola Scenic Trail with the popular West Orange Trail, it opened up access to 22 miles of hills and lakes. 

After jogging, pedaling or skating, head to the shores of Lake Minneola and look for the quirky and quiet Tiki Bar and Grill. There are no billboards directing you to this popular watering hole; no huge ad campaign to support it; no waitresses in tight T-shirts or spandex shorts. 

But once you’ve found it, you’ll likely find yourself sitting on the deck, sipping a drink, enjoying the waterfront and savoring what’s left of Old Florida.

In Minneola, it’s a natural.

Incorporated: 1926       Population: 9,733       minneola.us

CLERMONT

Decades ago, the hills of Clermont were covered with acres of citrus groves accented by one of the area’s first tourist attractions: the majestic Citrus Tower. 

Sadly, freezes in 1983 and 1985 crippled the citrus industry while a third freeze in 1989 delivered the knockout blow. With many of the picturesque groves destroyed, developers moved in and soon thousands of orange trees were replaced by thousands of homes. 

But Clermont’s affinity for growth, whether in homes or horticulture, was displayed in 1989 when the Lakeridge Winery and Vineyards planted its first crop on 127 acres along U.S. 27. Today, the state’s largest premium winery produces 1 million bottles a year. 

The hills and lakes that foster premium wine are also the natural assets that have helped Clermont establish itself as the training ground for athletes, triathletes and Olympic hopefuls. 

In 2001, the city’s South Lake Hospital opened the National Training Center complex which has since helped develop the skills of thousands of high school, collegiate, amateur and professional athletes.

The former “Gem of the Hills” is also carving out a hometown atmosphere. Clermont’s downtown village, largely hidden from view due to its location several blocks north of busy S.R. 50,  features boutiques, restaurants, salons, merchants and pubs just blocks from Lake Minneola. 

And the waterfront has become a picturesque walkway, with waterfront restaurants, a fishing pier and bicycle, paddleboard and kayak concessions. 

On Sunday mornings, nearly five dozen local merchants set up shop for the downtown farmers’ market with jams, jellies, honey, baked goods, fresh seafood, canned foods and, of course, citrus.

Incorporated: 1916      Population: 30,033      clermontfl.gov

GROVELAND

Roughly a century ago, a 20,000-acre parcel was separated into lots and sold primarily to Swedes from Illinois who were caught up in the Florida real estate boom. 

Located west of Clermont, you’d be hard-pressed to hear a Swedish accent in Groveland today. But there are thrills in the air.

Just a few miles south of town on C.R. 33, Quest Air Hang Gliding offers tandem rides up to 3,000 feet — and chances are, the instructor will let you take the controls. 

Even more thrills are in store 10 miles further south at Seminole Lake Gliderport, where soaring in a sailplane reveals a whole new world of aviation. Detach yourself from the towplane at 5,000 feet and the sensation and sound (or lack of it) of flying without an engine offers an unforgettable adrenaline rush.

More down to earth is a Groveland favorite: the Red Wing. Celebrate your conquest of the air at this lodge-style landmark, where you can order such unusual delicacies as fried quail. 

Incorporated: 1922      Population: 9,181      groveland-fl.gov

LEESBURG

A few events highlight the evolution of Leesburg. First were freezes in the late 1800s that killed any chance that it would become a citrus capital. 

The second was the motorist who ran over and killed Annie Oakley’s dog. That happened in 1925, when Mr. and Mrs. Frank Butler — the husband and wife sharpshooters — were guests at the Lake View Hotel. The tragic event is memorialized by a statue of Annie and her English setter, Dave, displayed at the public library.

There were also periods when Leesburg was the world’s watermelon capital, when its lakes attracted bass anglers from across America and when, during World War II, German prisoners were housed at the current site of Lake-Sumter College. 

Those historical highlights aside, today Leesburg has developed an impressive calendar of events as well as an active shopping district courtesy of its downtown merchants and the Leesburg Partnership. 

Together they organize special events such as the county’s longest-running farmers’ market (Saturday mornings) and monthly food truck events held in tandem with films shown outdoors — all taking place in the town square.

Annual highlights include springtime’s Mardi Gras celebration and autumn’s Bikefest, which has grown exponentially since it was relocated here from Mount Dora in 1997. Billed as the “World’s Largest Three-Day Motorcycle and Music Event,” a quarter-million riders attend each year. 

Far more tranquil is Venetian Gardens on the shores of Lake Harris. Once the sole attraction in the city, this public park remains a peaceful refuge; a venue for weddings and a place to bring the family for a picnic or a walk along the Venetian Gardens Trail.

Incorporated: 1916       Population: 20,796       leesburg.com

LADY LAKE

In the county’s northwest quarter there really is a place called Lady Lake. But as you drive north on U.S. Hwy. 441, it tends to blur into the sprawling presence of The Villages. 

In the 1970s, Lady Lake was the location of a mobile home community called Orange Blossom Gardens that, over the decades, transformed into the super-sized, nationally known retirement community that has its own daily newspaper and TV station. 

Having outgrown Lady Lake, The Villages has now spread into Sumter and Marion counties, overshadowing its birthplace with a population of 110,000 versus 14,098 for Lady Lake proper.

Lady Lake’s slow pace, too, is a sharp contrast to its burgeoning neighbor’s full slate of activities. Tuesdays at 9 a.m. the city presents a farmers’ market in Log Cabin Park, named for a log cabin built in 1935 as a WPA project. Today, the rustic building serves as the town’s chamber of commerce. 

Other than that, there are art festivals twice a year, a holiday light-up event in December and the Lady Lake Historical Museum in the renovated train depot.

In the museum, exhibits include a look at founding families, agriculture, schools, churches, Seminole Indians, the 2007 tornado that took the lives of eight Lady Lake citizens and, naturally, the evolution of The Villages.

Incorporated: 1916       Population: 14,098       ladylake.org

UMATILLA

Built upon the strength of local growers and citrus packing plants, today there remains a semblance of a Umatilla business district (residents are still tickled about the arrival of their own Beef O’Brady’s). There’s a feed store, a public library and a bed and breakfast. You’ll even see folks selling boiled peanuts by the roadside. 

But soon after, the town just seems to stop — dissolving into the southern entrance to the Ocala National Forest. That means Umatilla is just minutes away from Alexander Springs, Salt Springs and plenty of bears — which makes the town an ideal locale for the annual Florida Black Bear and Wildlife Conservation Festival, held each October.

In a place like Umatilla, you’d expect to find some down-home dining — and so you shall. Just south of town in a dot of a place called Dona Vista, the Mason Jar restaurant is a local landmark. 

A tribute to comfort food, the menu includes roast beef, fried chicken, beef tips and noodles, okra, sweet potatoes, cornbread, black-eyed peas, sweet tea, and peach cobbler and banana pudding for dessert. 

Incorporated: 1904       Population: 3,598       umatillafl.org

TAVARES

Although Alexander St. Clair-Abrams wasn’t able to convince the right people that Tavares should be the capital of Florida, the newspaper and railroad man held enough sway (and had enough cash) to help beat out Leesburg and make Tavares the Lake County seat.

As the center of county government, had you visited here a few years ago, after government offices had closed for the day, you would have found a town in which the proverbial sidewalks had been rolled up. 

But then someone looked around and noticed an overlooked asset: Lake Dora. Tavares’ backyard seemed a perfect place to create a seaplane base. 

And so, in 2010, they created one. It was a bold step on the part of the city (and its taxpayers). But the belief was that the lake would support a wide range of waterfront activities and attract plenty of participants. 

So how has it all turned out? Quite well, thank you.

As the $8.3 million seaplane base was being developed, Tavares adopted (and copyrighted) the name “America’s Seaplane City.” Since the base’s premiere, other improvements have taken shape.

Investors created not one, not two, but three hotels along the waterfront. Wooton Park has become a paradise for kids who love the splash park and playground, while tourists gather at the renovated railroad depot to board the Orange Blossom Special for a locomotive ride.

Businesses and wedding parties are reserving the new-in-2014 lakeside conference and event center with its commanding view across Lake Dora.

Within walking distance, an impressive array of restaurants are serving people right. First on the block was O’Keefe’s Irish Pub, which led to Al’s Landing, an open-air restaurant with live music to match; Al’s Sand Bar, with a beachside toes-in-the-sand setting; and the Key West-themed Tiki West. There’s also Lake Dora Sushi, the Ruby Street Grille, and others.

Tavares owes a debt to the visionaries who saw the town’s future and the citizens who supported it. It also owes a debt to Lake Dora, which is clearly an essential factor in the city’s social, recreational, and economic makeup — especially in March. 

While seaplanes are landing day after day, in March alone Tavares hosts the Dragon Boat Festival, Spring Thunder Vintage Race Boat Regatta, and the Sunnyland Antique & Classic Boat Festival, which pulled up anchor in Mount Dora several years ago and found a warm welcome in Tavares.

Incorporated: 1880       Population: 14,248       tavares.com

EUSTIS

From its origins as a resort community for wealthy northerners in the late 1800s, Eustis has settled into the slow, Southern pace reflected in most Lake County towns. 

But it’s doubtful any other small Florida town (or any other small American town, for that matter) can rival what Eustis can claim: A space shuttle astronaut (David Walker); a Nobel Prize winner in physics (Robert Schrieffer); a co-founder of The Commodores (Thomas McClary) and the inspiration for Indiana Jones (Edgar James Banks, a roving archeologist who died in 1945). Eustis also boasts the nation’s second-oldest celebration of George Washington.

The third point on the so-called “Golden Triangle” (Tavares and Mount Dora being the others), Eustis is still a place of historic homes and a resurgent business district that encompasses the popular Historic State Theatre and its community troupe, the Bay Street Players, as well as art galleries and restaurants.

Eustis also boasts the largest body of water on the Harris Chain of Lakes — Lake Eustis, the home port of the Lake Eustis Sailing Club.

During the day, Eustis is bustling with shoppers, while around dusk couples and families filter into Ferran Park, strolling along walkways, savoring the soft breezes and soaking in the always-magnificent sunsets. 

Opposite the park, Olivia’s Coffeehouse is a popular gathering place, with open-mic sessions and featured performances. A few blocks north, the Clifford House, home of the Eustis Historical Museum & Preservation Society, is one of several local buildings on the National Register of Historic Places.

As the seasons change, Eustis changes with them. Each February, the city hosts GeorgeFest, celebrated here each year since 1902, making it the second-oldest Washington celebration in the U.S. 

In October, musicians from across the state gather for the Lake County Folk Festival, performing in Ferran Park’s historic Alice McClelland Bandshell. 

Music on the water. The end to a picture-perfect Lake County tour.

Incorporated: 1886        Population: 18,899        eustis.org