Southwest Florida Survival Guide

Add to that the area's rapid development, and even full-time residents have trouble keeping pace.

So here is a compendium of the peculiarities of subtropical living as practiced along the Southwest Florida coast.

1. Making it through the winter.

The 3.2 million tourists who flocked to Southwest Florida last year made their usual mark. Traffic bogged down and restaurants and beaches overflowed with sunburned humanity. Expect that from January through April it will take more time to do almost anything-getting in and out of the bank and supermarket, getting onto the Internet, snagging a parking spot at the beach. Arm yourself with a basic survival kit: soothing music, a map and a sense of humor.

2. The changing seasons.

Instead of looking for the leaves to change color, check out license plate hues. As fall segues into winter, chilled Northerners and their vehicles head south. The feathered contingent makes the trip, too, filling the region with song and shore birds. Spring begins in late March with the arrival of the Boston Red Sox, the Minnesota Twins and their fans, who kick off the baseball season with a month of Grapefruit League games in Fort Myers. Frequent afternoon rains and flurries of hurricane preparedness seminars herald summer's start. Temperatures hover in the 90s from May through October. Summer is the time to bring a sweater along to restaurants, stores and other public establishments chilled to arctic conditions. Fall is the most fleeting and fabulous of seasons, with dry sunny days and cool nights. Clothing changes little from season to season. Except on really chilly days, white's acceptable year-round.

3. Learning the lingo.

Nothing gives away a newcomer more quickly than ignorance of the local lexicon. Let's take Matlacha, for example. Pronounced MAT-la-SHAY, it's a community that hugs the eastern edge of Pine Island in Lee County. Once strictly a thriving fishing and agricultural community, it now attracts the artsy crowd, too. Some theorize the name is derived from some French word (no one can agree on which one), while others contend it's the English version of an Indian word for defender. Immokalee (im-MOCK-a-LEE) is a farming community in eastern Collier County. The name is an Indian word for tumbling water. Ochopee (oh-CHOP-ee) means big field in Indian dialect. The tiny Collier County town's claim to fame is that it's home to the country's smallest post office. The river that flows through Lee County is the Caloosahatchee (Ka-LOO-sa-HATCH-ee) after the Caloosa Indian tribe that lived in the region and the Indian word hatchee, for river.

4. Beaches and beyond.

Southwest Florida has a bounty of public beaches. Fort Myers Beach affords gentle waters for families with young children while also appealing to young adults who like its beachfront bars. Sanibel Island draws shell enthusiasts because of its ranking as one of the world's three best shelling areas. The island pays homage to its treasures at the Bailey Matthews Shell Museum. Beaches along the Sanibel Causeway are popular for picnics and windsurfing. Lovers Key, just south of Fort Myers Beach, is the region's lone dog-friendly beach. In Collier County, Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Recreation Area offers pristine beaches, shady trees and ample parking. Marco Island's Tigertail Beach boasts loads of white sand and amenities, including beach equipment for rent and a snack bar.

The more than 75,000 boats registered in Lee, Collier and Charlotte counties are a testament to the water's appeal. A boat provides entry to the Gulf of Mexico, Estero Bay, the Caloosahatchee and its small tributaries. Along the way, boaters will likely see dolphins as they vault into the air, then plunge back into the water. Anglers can match wits with the mighty tarpon as well as grouper, snapper, snook and dolphin (not Flipper-it's a fish also known as mahi-mahi). Beware shallow water. Get a chart and follow it faithfully. They don't call the channel at the mouth of the Caloosahatchee Miserable Mile for nothing.

5. Sampling a smorgasbord of culture.

The Philharmonic Center for the Arts in Naples and Barbara B. Mann Performing Arts Hall in Fort Myers bring top-flight plays and entertainers to the region. The Naples Philharmonic performs at The Phil, which is also the Miami City Ballet's west coast home. The Southwest Florida Symphony performs at the Mann. The Equity Florida Repertory Theatre stages recent Broadway hits in the historic Arcade Theater in downtown Fort Myers. The Broadway Palm and Naples Dinner theaters offer popular productions along with meals. The Naples Players perform at the Sugden Theater in Old Naples. Several smaller theater groups offer musical revues, world premiere plays and reliable perennials.

Among the major fine arts galleries are the Naples Museum of Art and the gallery at Edison Community College in Fort Myers. Clusters of private art galleries can be found in Old Naples, and on Sanibel, Captiva and Pine islands.

When the Everblades hockey team, the Sea Dragons basketball team and the Firecats arena football team aren't hosting home games, TECO Arena in Estero offers other sports events and large concerts.

Don't forget the area's most famous attraction, the Edison-Ford Winter Estates, the winter homes of friends Thomas Edison and Henry Ford along McGregor Boulevard in Fort Myers.

6. Developing a subtropical green thumb.

It's possible for Southwest Florida gardeners to grow most of the crops they did up North, but not at the same time of the year. Summer here means intense heat and heavy rains, conditions no self-respecting tomato or cucumber would tolerate. As Northerners are reaping the last fruits of their labors in September, in this part of Florida gardeners are sowing their seeds, planting gardens that thrive from fall through spring. Geraniums, daisies and other plants considered annuals up North are perennials here. A bonus of living in this subtropical climate is the wealth of tropical fruit that flourishes here. Key limes, papayas and mangoes are among the sweet rewards of a steamy summer. Bananas, carambolas, grapefruits, oranges, lychees, kumquats, guava and avocados grow in local back yards the way peach and apple trees do up North.

7. Addressing taxing issues.

The good news: Florida has no state income tax. The bad news: The state makes that up in several ways. Because tourism is its lifeblood, that's where governments look to raise money. There's a gas tax, which varies by county, a tourist tax on hotel rooms (3 percent) and sales tax (6 percent). There's also an intangibles tax, which is a state assessment on stocks, bonds and other assets in excess of $20,000 per person. On the property tax front, homeowners get a $25,000 homestead exemption, which is deducted from the assessed value of a primary, permanent residence.

8. Dining-with or without reservations.

It's fortunate that many accomplished restaurateurs prefer the area's climate to those of higher-profile cities. The region abounds with dining opportunities. All the major chains are here or will be soon. On the high end, The Dining Room and The Grill Room at The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, get rave reviews from AAA, Mobil and Zagat. From Marco Island to Fort Myers, there are legions of restaurants spanning the culinary globe, with a profusion of Italian, Japanese and French establishments as well as Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Persian, Indian, Middle Eastern, German and down-home Southern concerns. A herd of steakhouses delivers all the cow a carnivore can devour. But the region's culinary star is fresh seafood, and many chefs give it the royal treatment.

9. Finding the heart of the cities.

Fort Myers and Naples have thriving downtown neighborhoods with lots of restaurants, galleries, theaters and nightlife, particularly on weekends. Park the car and walk around to discover boutiques tucked in nooks not always visible from the street. Sidewalk tables at restaurants afford prime people watching.

10. Shopping as sport.

From plastic pink flamingos to original works by renowned artist and Captiva resident Robert Rauschenberg, shopping satisfies in Southwest Florida. For the campiest of camp, head to the Shell Factory in North Fort Myers, which contains a world-class inventory of shells and creations made with them. Bargain hunters make regular treks through the Tanger Sanibel Factory Stores on Summerlin Road in Fort Myers, Miromar Factory Stores just off Interstate 75 in Estero and Prime Outlets on State Road 951 between Naples and Marco Island. Edison Mall in Fort Myers and Coastland Center in Naples contain virtually all of the major chains. The prices and styles climb a few notches at Bell Tower in Fort Myers, The Promenade in Bonita Springs and Waterside Shops in Naples. Boutiques abound along Third Street South in Old Naples and Periwinkle Way on Sanibel.

11. Celebrating Florida style.

If it exists in Southwest Florida, there's a festival for it. Mullet, swamp cabbage and swamp buggies, shrimp, mangoes, tomatoes, seniors, sandsculpting and the arts all inspire festivals, most of which take place in the winter when more people are here. There are blues festivals and juried art shows, concerts in the parks and county fairs. The biggest bash of all is the most-of-February celebration of Fort Myers' most famous winter resident, Thomas Edison, with a sizable nighttime parade and the city's version of a cotillion in the form of the royal Court of Edisonia. In Naples, the swamp buggies race twice a year, the souped-up contraptions battling through the Mile O' Mud. Naples also is the site of the Naples Wine Festival, held each of the past two Februaries. The most recent raised $3.4 million for local youth charities, with some 450 participants paying a minimum of $5,000 a couple to attend.

12. Above par.

Considering that it's possible to play golf almost year-round here, it's no surprise that there are lots of golf courses-about 150 in Lee and Collier counties combined, and more under construction. Naples ranks second in the nation for golf holes per capita, with Fort Myers placing fourth. There are public, semi-private and private courses. Lots of leading course architects have designed courses here, including Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus, Greg Norman and Tom Fazio. Most places charge top dollar during tourist season, with a round at the new Norman-designed Tiburón Golf Club in North Naples exceeding $200. Playing at off hours and in the off-season can save money.

13. Weather woes.

Lightning strikes more people in Florida than in any other state. People are more likely to be struck by lightning than they are to strike it rich in the Florida Lottery. If lightning starts up while you're on the golf course or the beach, leave immediately. Avoid water, open space, trees and metal. Get in an enclosed building or car as quickly as possible. While indoors, do not use the telephone, appliances, computers, power tools and televisions. June through November constitutes hurricane season, a time when large tropical storms can threaten the area with heavy rains, winds and destruction. Those here during that time should create a plan and prepare a survival kit should they have to leave home in the event of an approaching storm.

14. Achieving a peaceful co-existence.

People who come from primarily urbanized areas are often surprised to find out how many wild creatures reside in Southwest Florida. the official state animal, the Florida panther, found primarily in the Everglades and Big Cypress Swamp east of Naples is rare and endangered.

Once endangered, alligators now thrive in the region. You can see them sunbathing motionless on lush golf greens or floating like logs in lakes and roadside canals. Keep a safe distance, particularly during the spring mating season and in the summer, when the females fiercely defend their offspring. It's illegal to feed them, but eating them is just fine. 'Gator tail can be found on some restaurant menus.

Other local species include osprey (aka fish hawks), which nest atop pilings and signs, and burrowing owls, which live in holes in the ground (undeveloped lots in Cape Coral have proved popular real estate for the latter species). People often post small wooden crosses for the little birds to perch on, giving them high ground when rains flood their burrows and markers to alert other humans to keep their distance.

Manatees, lumbering sea cows that are also endangered, congregate in local waters, particularly during the winter. Their only enemy: man and his fast-moving boats. Large sea turtles-loggerhead, hawksbill, Kemp's ridley, leatherback and green-come ashore on summer nights to lay their eggs. People patrol beaches at night to mark the nests to prevent their destruction.

On the bug front, fierce mosquitoes and cockroaches the size of small armored tanks pose a challenge. Avoid allowing water to collect in buckets and such on your property to reduce mosquito populations. As for the roaches, good aim with a roach spray or a solid whack with a heavy shoe usually does the trick.

15. Getting from here to there.

Southwest Florida International Airport south of Fort Myers connects the region to the world. Smaller airlines and charter services fly out of the Naples Airport. Private craft can also land at Marco Executive Airport, Immokalee Regional Airport and Page Field in Fort Myers. A car is virtually a necessity here, with limited bus service and few taxis other than the type that shuttle passengers to and from the airports.

16. Water, water everywhere.

There's plenty of water for swimming, boating and fishing. What's in short supply is the treated variety used for drinking, bathing and lawn irrigation. The region's water supply is a precious and limited commodity. Outdoor watering and car washing are restricted to conserve the supply. Instead of re-creating your lush Northern lawn, consider using smaller plots of grass and a lot of native plants that require little water. Ask at any garden store-or the local office of the Florida Cooperative Extension Service-for details on this method, known as xeriscape.

17. Here comes the sun.

Many newcomers develop painful sunburns without sunbathing. The sun is particularly strong in Florida, so use sunscreen all the time. Ditch those cute little sunglasses and get a serious pair that covers the eyes completely and protects against both UV-A and UV-B rays. Wear a hat for further face and scalp protection. Overexposure to the sun can result in wrinkled flesh, deadly melanoma and cataracts.

18. Doctor, doctor.

Because of its aging, affluent population, Southwest Florida has plenty of doctors, and hospitals equipped with state-of-the-art technology. The Cleveland Clinic Florida recently opened a branch in North Naples. Lee Memorial's Healthpark Medical Center has the ambience of a hotel, with a lush and soaring atrium lobby and a bargain-priced cafeteria that serves food people come in for even when they aren't sick. Lee Memorial also has a growing Children's Hospital with a pediatric specialty staff. People seeking alternative therapies such as acupuncture, ayurveda, reiki and Chinese herbal medicine can find it here, too.

19. Staking a claim.

Many visitors decide to buy their own piece of paradise. While the days when developers flew planeloads of Northerners down to buy land for $55 down and $55 a month are largely gone, there's a lot left to buy, ranging from undeveloped lots to timeshares, condos, houses and multimillion-dollar estates.

20. Pet subjects.

More than 100,000 dogs and cats reside in the region. Dogs don't get a warm welcome everywhere, but there are two dog parks-Barkingham Park at Buckingham Park east of Fort Myers and Rovers Run at Veterans Community Park in North Naples. Pets should be vaccinated for rabies and other contagious diseases and kept on leashes when outdoors. They should also be on heartworm and flea prevention year-round. For those who want a new pet, there are loads of homeless animals available, including many purebreds. More than 18,000 homeless pets undergo euthanasia at shelters here each year. Non-profit shelters avoid euthanasia by turning away animals when they are full. But county facilities, such as Lee County Animal Services and Domestic Animal Services in Naples, have to take all abandoned pets. Both are great places to find loving companions.